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Review : Vinous science

2 August 1997

“The stronger the oenology, the more uninteresting and duller the wine,” is
an assertion Harry Paul sets out to disprove throughout Science, Vine and Wine
in Modern France. Science鈥攊n the forms of viticulture (the science of
vines) and oenology (the science of wines)鈥攈as saved the French winemaking
industry more than once from ruin. A delectable story that falls flat in the
finish: overly complex, fragmented and excessively dry. Published by Cambridge
University Press, 拢45/$64.95, ISBN 0521497450.

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