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Fix the Planet newsletter: The race to replace meat

Meat is responsible for roughly twice the greenhouse gas emissions of plant-based food. Can we afford not to seek alternative sources of protein for our food?

By Adam Vaughan

13 January 2022

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A meal featuring a nugget made from lab-grown chicken meat

AFP via Getty Images

Welcome to this week’s Fix the Planet, the weekly climate change newsletter that reminds you there are reasons for hope in science and technology around the world. To receive this free, monthly newsletter in your inbox, sign up here.

I don鈥檛 eat meat anymore, but I used to rely on it as my main source of protein. Many other people still do. But meat is also responsible for roughly twice the global greenhouse gas emissions as plant-based food聽补苍诲听more nitrogen pollution than Earth can handle, as well as being聽a leading driver of illegal deforestation.

So where else can we get our protein, without livestock鈥檚 environmental hangover? A host of alternative proteins are competing, from plant-based ones (currently mostly wheat, soy or pea-based options) and 鈥渓ab-grown鈥 meat to insects and microbes that make animal proteins.

A food strategy commissioned by the UK government聽聽last year that the country should develop alternative proteins. Today, alternative meat is worth just 1 per cent of the global meat industry, but聽.

This week鈥檚 Fix the Planet takes a closer look at some of the options and the potential pitfalls in the transition to alternative proteins.

Do we really need to shift to alternative proteins?

It鈥檚 worth saying that, in the UK at least, most people eat more protein than they need,聽about 50 per cent more on average than guidelines recommend. So we don鈥檛 need a completely like-for-like replacement for protein from meat. But looking beyond today to聽 , Wendy Russell at University of Aberdeen, UK, says the status quo would require 465 billion kilograms of meat. That isn鈥檛 feasible in terms of land and water use, she says, let alone carbon emissions. 鈥淲e really do need to change our diet,鈥 says Russell.

Which alternatives are ready?

鈥淭here is no shortage of ideas around how we can get alternatives to meat,鈥 says Guy Poppy at the University of Southampton, UK. You may have seen that聽. However, it鈥檚 the only place in the world where it鈥檚 been approved for sale so far, the nuggets cost about $23聽for four and the bulk of them is made from plant protein. The UK regulator, the Food Standards Agency (FSA), says it has no applications lodged to sell lab-grown meat. Scaling up production of lab-grown meat remains hard.

By comparison, food with plant-based protein has proliferated, from the soy and wheat-based 鈥渇acon鈥 and other products now sold in supermarkets to the soy-based 鈥渂leeding鈥 burgers of Impossible Foods. Insects are also on the agenda, with two applications placed with the FSA in the UK and the聽. Then there are companies pursuing other routes, such as UK-Dutch company聽which plans to use carbon dioxide, microbes and fermentation to make animal feed that is lower carbon and uses less water than conventional feed. The firm is finishing a new聽facility, based in the Netherlands, in the next few weeks.

What about more far-out stuff?

One prospect is using gorse, a plant that is widespread in parts of the UK, especially Scotland. 鈥淕orse is a really interesting plant because it鈥檚 actively being removed; people are using large amounts of herbicide and burning it back,鈥 says Russell. 鈥淲e know it was fed to cattle in the past. We do think protein from gorse could be used as animal food.鈥 If protein isolates from gorse were shown to be safe, they could be considered for human food in the future too, she says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not off the cards.鈥 Hemp also holds future promise as protein for humans, says Russell, who notes that聽.

In the UK, no edible insects are currently approved for consumption, apart from a German cheese mite. However, there are two applications being reviewed by the聽FSA. Responding to聽, Robin May at the FSA says: 鈥淲e are really keen to do everything we can to get industry to get those products moving forward. The key point is they have to be safe and they have to approved.鈥 滨鈥檝别听聽about stuff further down the line, such as the idea of a 鈥淨uorn of mussels鈥 turning bivalves into more attractive food, such as a burger (you can read more on that idea in聽).

What are the potential downsides?

Arguably, the biggest one is that environmental gains from alternative proteins will be at the cost of people鈥檚 health, if processed alternative products add too much fat, salt and sugar. 鈥淚n the rush forward, will plant-based proteins be the junk food of the future?鈥 says Poppy. Ian Givens at the University of Reading, UK, says environmental benefits might be better considered in the context of the nutrition that meat alternatives offer. 鈥淚 do wonder whether the way environmental impacts of food are currently judged should be more aligned to the nutritional contributions food makes,” he says. For example, with milk, perhaps environmental cost could be measured per milligram of calcium, he says.

How do we label products effectively?

鈥淚t鈥檚 extremely complicated,鈥 says May. But he adds: 鈥淭here is a real place for eco labelling.鈥 The trickiness is in the science behind the labels 鈥 measuring emissions, how land for food production might alternatively be used, how products are shipped and so on. The difficulty also lies in how people use the labels: May says the average person spends just 6 to 7 seconds looking at a product when they鈥檙e shopping. For that reason, he thinks a traffic light scheme, akin to nutrition labelling, might work best. While the idea is a 鈥渁 very active topic of discussion鈥 between the FSA, food firms and government departments, May says there are no eco label plans 鈥渨ith a hard date鈥 yet.

MORE FIXES

  • 滨鈥檝别听reported before on plans to make hydrogen using water and electricity, and gas using carbon capture and storage. This week the UK government said it will explore ways to make hydrogen from biomass, from trees to grasses, .
  • Talking of the UK government, it鈥檚 facing聽 over its net zero strategy last year . The green group is arguing the pathways to net zero emissions are only 鈥渢heoertical鈥 and not supported by government policy. It鈥檚 worth mentioning the government has twice refused New 女生小视频鈥檚 requests to release the emissions savings of individual measures in the strategy, such as supporting a new nuclear power station.
  • suggests countries could win a 鈥渄ouble climate dividend鈥 from shifting to more plant-based diets from the emissions saved in production and turning over livestock land for CO2 removals. Yes, it鈥檚 exactly what 聽.

Thanks to everyone who responded to last week鈥檚 newsletter on things to watch in 2022 with their own suggestions. One reader pointed out that on floating wind, which I mentioned,聽聽is due to be installed by the end of March. Another pointed me to聽, including the proliferation of car-free cities and falling renewable costs. And one subscriber rightly noted that I鈥檇 missed out geoengineering, which could be back on the agenda if聽a pilot project in Sweden that was postponed last year goes聽ahead in mid-2022 as its backers hope.

As always, I can’t respond to every one of your emails but I do read them all, so keep them coming, and please do share聽Fix the Planet聽with a friend if you think they鈥檇 enjoy it.

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